These written instructions supplement the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxqiXfwfUEE on the Triaxial Weave – tumbling block pattern.
Triaxial Weave/Mad Weave – Tumbling Block Pattern
Finished size approximately 18-1/2” x 18 ½” up to about 20” x 20”
Jackie Watkins
- ½ to 1 yard of base fabric – Fabric A – usually the darkest (See NOTE below)
- ½ to 1 yard of second layer fabric – Fabric B – usually a medium (See NOTE below)
- ½ to 1 yard of third layer fabric – Fabric C – usually the lightest (See NOTE below)
- 1” bias tape maker – optional
- Large foam board – at least 20” square. (1/4” to ½” thick-thicker is better)
- Sewing pins – Any will do, but I prefer Petite Pearlized Pins (3/4”) 150 per package from JoAnn’s
- WEFTY needle – optional (and one pencil or stiletto) OR
- Stiletto (2) or long pencils (2) – optional
- 1 yard of some type fusible, fusible on one side only
- Blue painters tape
- Basic sewing supplies, including a long acrylic ruler with a 30-degree mark
- Starch or Best Press – optional, but advised – starch works best
- Fine tip black Sharpie type pen
STEPS
Drawing the grid on the foam board
Draw a line 1” from the bottom of the foam board and parallel to the bottom.
Using your ruler, place the 30-degree angle line on that drawn line, and line it up all the way to the right end of the first drawn line. Place your pen at that right corner and draw a line all the way to the left. Mark that line at both ends with an “A”.
Manipulate your ruler to do the same thing drawing another line from the left corner toward the right. Mark that line at both ends with a “B”.
Where those two 30-degree lines intersect, place your ruler at that intersection. Line up the bottom of the ruler to the first drawn line at the bottom of the foam board. Place your pen at the 30-degree intersection to be sure you are directly in the middle. Then draw your line as far as the ruler extends both ways.
To finish your grid, draw lines one inch apart from the A line, the B line and the straight up the middle line.
Cutting fabrics
NOTE: Here is why you will need ½ yard to 1 yard of each fabric. Your first layer will be placed on your foam board parallel to each other. These strips will probably be cut at about 20” long. In other words, they are cut precisely the same length. Therefore, ½ yard will be enough fabric and will yield about 20 strips if cut along the grain.
The second and third layers are weaved at a 30-degree angle. Using a ½ yard of fabric, if you cut all your second and third fabrics the same length along the grain, say 20”, your strips will not be long enough to weave at a 30-degree angle across the project.
If you are using a yard of fabric, if you cut a few strips so that they are the width of the fabric, 44” or so, you can weave a strip at a 30-degree angle, and cut off what hangs over. What hangs over won’t be enough to weave through the project for the next strip, but as you get closer to the corners, shorter fabric strips can be used. All this to say, you will not want to cut all of your second and third layer fabrics at one time. Cut three or four long strips, weave those, and re-evaluate. I will demonstrate so that this will make more sense to you. (At this time, I have not experimented enough to know if ½ yard of fabric will be enough to complete the project; therefore, I have suggested that ½ yard to one yard of fabric should be on hand. Sorry I can’t be more helpful.)
Pull all fabrics as you cut them through the bias tape maker – or simply fold each long side to the middle and iron to make a 1” wide strip. Starch or use Best Press if desired. Starch is best to use.
First Layer of the Weave– Fabric A
Place the fusible on the foam board making sure that the sticky side is up (not toward your foam board). For this project, you will probably want to cut this fusible at least 21” by 21”. It should fit under your entire weaved project.
Cut Fabric A into 2” strips along the grain so that you end up with about 20 strips that are 18”-22” long. Pull all fabrics as you cut them through the bias tape maker – or simply fold each long side to the middle and iron to make a 1” wide strip. Starch or use Best Press if desired. Starch is best to use.
Line up side by side (no gaps between the strips) all your first layer of fabric strips. These strips should be placed parallel to the straight line in the middle of your grid.
Securely pin the top and the bottom of each strip. Hint – Place pin straight in and then angle it toward the top of the foam board for the top of the strips; and angled down for the bottom of the strips.
Second Layer of the Weave – Fabric B
Go back and read the note about cutting the Fabric B. Cut a few strips of fabric. Follow the instructions below for adding the strips. Cut more strips as necessary. Pull all fabrics as you cut them through the bias tape maker – or simply fold each long side to the middle and iron to make a 1” wide strip. Starch or use Best Press if desired. Starch is best to use.
Identify your 30-degree mark on your board, particularly both ends of the A marked line.
If using a WEFTY needle, thread it. Hold your WEFTY so that the wording is facing up and the tapered end faces down. Thread the fabric strip into the eye of the Wefty and fold it underneath itself. Use a stiletto or other long object to help hold up the strips you are weaving under. You can always perform this step with your fingers. Whatever works for you.
FIRST STRIP: Starting at the right of your project, weave in your first strip going over one strip, under 2 strips, over one strip, under 2 strips, to the end. Make sure you line this strip up on the 30-degree line (using your A line) from the right corner upwards to the left. With a two-inch overhang on each side, pin as described for the first layer, except put the pin straight in, and then angle it to the right on the right side, and to the left on the left side. When pinning on the left side, use only ONE pin on this strip. Again, each time you weave a strip, leave about two inches of extra fabric on each right and left side to make it easier for you when you get ready to square up your project.
Weave in your second strip by starting under one, over one, then under two. Continue over one, under two, over one, under two upwards to the left. Keeping a 2-inch overhang on each side, pin as described for the first layer, except put the pin straight in, and then angle it to the right on the right side, and to the left on the left side. This strip and all remaining strips should be snug against the prior strip just weaved. When pinning on the right side, use only one pin on the strip. Outside the pinned area all the way to the left of this strip, take your Sharpie and number this strip “2”.
Weave in your third strip by starting under two, over one, under two, over one upwards to the left. Pin as described for the first layer, except put the pin straight in, and then angle it to the right on the right side, and to the left on the left side. Outside the pinned area all the way to the left of this strip, take your Sharpie and number this strip “3”.
The fourth strip is the same as the first; fifth, same as the second; sixth, same as the third, and so on. You may want to mark each of these added strips as either 1, 2, or 3 as appropriate.
Work your way up until your weaving is complete to the top.
Then go the bottom, right under where you weaved your first strip. Remember that you are weaving under the first strip; therefore, the strip you are now adding is the same as the third strip that you added previously. Keep adding strips in that manner, until the bottom of the weaving is finished. Mark these strips to help you keep up with the next strip to weave.
Third layer – Fabric C – (Whether using a WEFTY or stiletto, read through these instructions. Directions are in the *** area if you are using a stiletto instead of a WEFTY***)
When weaving the third layer, thread the WEFTY holding the numbers and tapered end face-up.
Look for a long diamond with a small diamond on each side of it. We will refer to this as a UNIT. (This is sometimes referred to as a backwards Z or a bird with wings.) Remember, you are looking at your project right to left, but you are weaving on a 30-degree angle.
Weave from right to left to start with, even if you have found that long diamond with the two small diamonds (a UNIT) in the middle of your project when beginning your Fabric C weaving.
Place the weaver under the small diamond to the right of the large diamond – go under that one, the large one, and the other small one. Remember, this a UNIT. Then go over strips until you get to the next small diamond/large diamond/small diamond UNIT. Weave as before, under the small diamond to the right of the large diamond, under the large one, and under the other small one. Continue working toward the left until you get to the end. Then focus to the right of the first UNIT. If you had started in the middle and there are UNITS to the right, continue to weave in the same fashion to the right. Caution: Remember that you are working on a 30-degree angle. It will be easier if you remember that, so that you can see that your weaving is being done in a straight line, but at a 30-degree angle. This weaving will also be going right to left, but at a 30-degree angle, angled downward.
You will continue completing your grid working towards the top; and then finish the grid working towards the bottom.
This third layer brings your weaving to life. You now can see your tumbling blocks.
***If you are not using a WEFTY, but are using a stiletto, pencil, or some other long object, then here is what you can do. Find the UNIT as described and place the stiletto under the UNIT. Then place blue tape on the fabric strip to be weaved, attach it to the stiletto with blue tape, and pull it through the UNIT. If desired and your stiletto is long enough, you can place the stiletto under several UNITS, tape as described, and pull the fabric through gently. This works easily when using ribbon as fabric. When using fabric, it can be more difficult because of the loose fabric underneath. You will probably need to use another stiletto, a sharpened pencil with the led broken, a purple thang, or the like to help you manipulate under the fabrics.
Finishing
Without removing any pins and when all the weaving is completed, attempt to straighten all the weaving, making sure there are no holes, everything is straight, and there is no fusible showing. Then iron the fabric to the fusible, being careful to not have so hot an iron it damages the foam board. Then place blue tape or masking tape around the perimeter of the weaved item to hold those fabrics that do not get caught by the fusible. When placing the tape, try to place it so that you will be able to sew right next to the tape and maintain the integrity of your weaved “picture” or ¼” away from the edge. Remember, if you are going to bind this weaving, then leave a ¼” space from your main focus of the weaved item. If you are going to face your project, more than a ¼” is usually required. If you are going to use this item in a project, just remember to leave the appropriate seam allowance. Remove pins as necessary during the taping step when the tape is going to be over the pins. Once you have taped the perimeter, then remove all pins. Carefully, take the weaved item to the sewing machine, and sew all the way around it at the outside edge of your seam allowance, using the tape as your guide. Remove tape and iron again.
Sources
The best book I have found on this technique is Hex Weave & Mad Weave, An Introduction to Triaxial Weaving, by Elizabeth Lang-Harris & Charlene St. John (2013). If you are highly motivated to make more weavings of different designs, this book is for you. Google it and buy it fairly cheaply online. Starting on page 68 you will find the section on Twill-Based Mad Weave, which will take you through patterns for the tumbling block, stacked spots, spots, pinwheel, basic star, and dancing star. It will also give you the color combinations for other patterns. The pattern is determined by the placement of the colors.
Go to youtube.com.
Two videos to consider:
- Type in the search portion – Introduction to Fabric Weaving with Mister Domestic Supplies, Tips for Beginners/Fat Quarter Shop Other Sources
- Type in the search portion – How to Make a Triaxial Fabric Weaving Pillow Front with Mister Domestic/Fat Quarter Shop
The above are Mister Domestic videos. Notice with your search that he has a lot more videos on fabric weaving. These could be helpful in your weaving growth.
Keep in mind, this is a rabbit hole you might really enjoy going down. There are so many videos on mad weave or triaxial weave. Put either of those terms in your search engine and enjoy the shows. There are a lot of other types of weaving that you will stumble across, some even looking like origami.
www.sewmuchmoore.com/mad-weave/ This site is an extremely helpful tutorial on the tumbling block pattern. Just don’t cut all your fabrics as she suggests.
https://yahoo.com/craftindustryalliance.org/manufacturing-product-story-wefty-needle/ This site tells how the WEFTY needle came into existence. It is a very interesting read and empowerment story for a woman entrepreneur.